The Laws Of Retention

Perfect retention is the most misunderstood, and yet easily achievable task when it comes to Eyelash Extensions.

So let’s begin with the BASICS, before we dive into the special tips, tricks and solutions I teach to encourage the BEST retention.

Basic Law 1: “ Retention will vary from client to client “. But WHY?

Retention will vary from client to client because every individual client has different factors and characteristics to consider. Not only will they not have the same amount of lashes, they will also vary in growth rate, oil production, skin type, hair thickness, natural lash curl, eyeshape, lid heaviness, sensitivity, waterline exposure, hormonal imbalances, medication and more. This means that different combinations and amounts of factors will apply between each client, therefore creating a different average growth rate to their natural lash. The growth rate matters because as the natural lash falls out, so will the extension attached to it.

Basic Law 2: “ Lashes will be at 50% between 2-3 weeks “ . On average, but DOES THIS ALWAYS APPLY?

Nope! This is an average statistic, but actually the time at which you have 50% fallen out, can vary. Some clients have 50% left by 2 weeks, and other clients can stretch their infills up to 4 weeks! Infills aren’t just about how many extensions are on your lashline, they are also about how many have grown past half of the natural lash length. This uneven weight distribution can cause damage if left unattended as it is easier to catch onto materials such as face cloths, pillow fibres etc. Therefore an infill is also about removing “out-grown” extensions, as much as it is about lashing the new natural lash hairs. 2 weeks is the advised time, however with incorrect aftercare, you might find that your lashes won’t last up to 2 weeks. This is why looking after your lashes as a client is essential for maintenance. If you don’t take proper care, you can cause damage.

Basic Law 3: “ Lashes will NOT cause damage unless cared for incorrectly” Yes and No!

It is also up to the technician to apply the lashes correctly, with individual isolation. Clumping can occur either at the point of application by not isolating properly or during aftercare by using heavy oil based products and failing to clean the lash extensions. These will then clump by “build - up” and not adhesive. In any event of clumping, the extensions must be immediately removed to avoid damage as much as possible.

NOW LETS DISCUSS THE EXPERT SECRETS!!

Expert Secret 1: Your temperature and humidity (if using any Glue apart from our Eternal Retention Elixir) will entirely dictate the speed at which your glue dries, as well as whether or not it cures. Let’s break this down into digestible specifics!

• If your adhesive is slow drying, but instead is suddenly drying quickly, you will find that your room temperature may be too hot. The same applies in reverse.
• Therefore if you work at a slower speed, your glue will now dry at a faster rate than that of your work. Meaning your extensions will most likely cure before reaching the natural lash. Rendering them useless to apply.
• The same applies for humidity. If the humidity is too low, the cyanoacrylate will not have enough moisture to cure. Even with a bonder applied, the set will fail to last.
• If your glue is drying faster than usual, you will also need to change the glue drop faster than usual.
• Humidity and Temperature can change after renovation works and room adjustments. The solution is simple, if you struggle with low humidity, or high temperatures, you will require a glue that works in that specific humidity / temperature range. But your BEST option is to use an adhesive that works in ANY temperature and humidity, so you don’t have to change glues with every weather change. Which if you’re based in the UK, is every 5 seconds!

Expert Secret 2: Do not ignore your adhesive requirements.

Most Glues have a requirement for which they can be stored unopened or opened. If your Glue is at the last few drops, you’ll probably find it best to replace. The remaining adhesive will struggle to mix well and may impact application. In addition to this, you MUST change your nozzle REGULARLY. MORE than you pierce the nozzle head. This is because if the nozzle is clogged you risk pushing the clogged adhesive back into the bottle, further clogging the liquid inside the bottle.

In addition to the above there is something called oxidisation. When an adhesive is stored near heat, or the nozzle isn’t tightly secured, the adhesive inside the bottle begins to cure. Creating a white powder substance on the external bottle. This is an indicator NOT to use the adhesive.

Expert Secret 3: If your client attends with moisturiser on their lash line, they may require more than a “Lash Bath”

Lash Glue requires a fixed method of application for great retention. Remove ONE component and your entire set could fall apart! Every step is as important as the next, so there’s no time for laziness!

If your client arrives with sun cream or oil based moisturiser, you’ll find that the lash bath won’t remove the entirety of this product. Lash Baths are a gentle cleanser, but not an oil, makeup or cream remover. Having wipes and micellar water to hand can help remove the products as much as possible however preventative methods such as advising your client to arrive without the above will be best.

The same applies for BUILD UP. If a client arrives with build up, you must remove the lash set. Lashing over build up will prevent bonding due to no direct contact between the glue and lash hair.

Expert Secret 4: Once bathed, wait a few moments before applying the Primer, and ONLY apply to oily or combination skin types. Then once the set is complete, wait a few minutes air drying before applying the bonder.

Primer dehydrates, therefore on dry hair types will disrupt attachment.

Bonder applied too quickly creates a white crystal like substance on the lashline. This indicates “shock” curing when the adhesive is still too wet.

Expert Secret 5: When attaching the extension to the natural lash, if it fails to attach at the first go, you MUST dispose of it, and pick-up a new lash fibre.

The adhesive instantly begins the curing process when in contact with the lash fibre. Therefore when in contact with the natural lash, the curing process is almost complete, and by the time you re-attach the glue is in fact dull, and will fall off in the following days.

Expert Secret 6: Learn how to say NO! (In a kind way)

If the lash line is damaged, say no.
If they have build up, advise a removal.

Building trust is about more than completing a lash set, it’s about prioritising your clients lash health.

If you wish to purchase an Adhesive that works in any temperature and humidity, head over to our PRODUCTS page.

If you wish to learn more, and are interested in advancing your skill, check out our E-Books or Accredited Art Of Lashing Course!